5 Cool-Season Greens That Love Your Balcony | Greenmuse

5 Cool-Season Greens That Love Your Balcony (Spinach, Kale, Arugula & Swiss Chard Growing Guide)

Published September 8, 2025 · Last updated September 2026 · 11 min read

CM
By Clara Moss
Founder of Greenmuse.io. Zone 7b balcony gardener for 10 years. I've harvested fresh greens from my balcony in every month of the year—including January. Cool-season growing isn't harder than summer; it's actually easier once you know which greens to plant and when.

Why Cool-Season Greens Work on a Balcony

To begin with, on November 15, 2025, I harvested a bowl of 'Red Russian' kale from my 6th-floor balcony. At the same time, the overnight low had been 24°F (-4°C). Even so, the kale leaves had frost crystals on them. And they were the sweetest, most tender kale I'd eaten all year—sweeter than any spring crop, sweeter than the $6 organic bunches at Whole Foods. In other words, cold conditions can change the way kale stores sugars. The colder it gets, the sweeter it tastes.

However, this is the part summer gardeners often miss: fall and winter greens don't just survive cold weather—they're better because of it. In addition, some warm-season pest pressure declines as weather cools. Watering drops to once a week. Bolting becomes impossible. And the flavor of every leaf improves.

Therefore, if your balcony garden goes empty after Labor Day, you're leaving three to five months of free, fresh food on the table. This guide covers five greens that thrive in cool weather, with specific varieties, container sizes, and planting dates for every USDA zone.

Spinach, kale, arugula, Swiss chard, and mâche growing in balcony containers during cool fall weather.
Spinach, kale, arugula, Swiss chard, and mâche growing in balcony containers during cool fall weather.

A Longer Cool-Season Growing Window

2026 Context — Grocery Prices Make Home Greens More Valuable Than Ever: According to the USDA, fresh vegetable prices increased 8-12% between 2024 and 2026. For example, a single bag of organic baby spinach now costs $4-5 at most US grocery stores—and it wilts within 3 days of purchase. By comparison, one $3 packet of spinach seeds produces 4-6 months of continuous harvest from a few balcony containers. As a result, growing some greens at home can reduce repeat grocery purchases. Meanwhile, warmer fall conditions in some regions can shift the planting window, the cool-season growing window is actually getting longer for zones 6-9.

Which Cool-Season Green Is Right for Your Balcony?

Your SituationBest GreenWhy
Complete beginner, never grown food beforeArugulaGerminates in 3 days, harvestable in 25 days, almost impossible to kill
Want maximum nutrition per square footKaleProduce from a single 12-inch pot can replace $30+ in store-bought kale over a season
Small balcony, limited potsSwiss ChardOne plant produces for 6+ months; cut-and-come-again keeps giving
Deep winter (Zone 5-6), want something aliveMâcheSurvives uncovered down to 5°F; the only green that keeps growing in deep freeze
Want salad greens for daily mealsSpinach + Arugula comboSpinach for mild base, arugula for peppery kick; stagger sowing for continuous bowl
Hot autumn (Zone 8-10), still 80°F+ in OctoberSwiss Chard or KaleBoth tolerate warm soil better than spinach; won't bolt until temperatures consistently exceed 75°F

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Quick Reference Chart

GreenDays to First HarvestMin Pot SizeFrost ToleranceBolt ResistanceHarvest Months
Spinach35–458 in.About 15°FLow (bolts in heat)Sep–Dec, Feb–May
Kale50–6012 in.Around 10°FExcellentSep–Mar
Arugula25–356 in.About 20°FLow (bolts fast in heat)Sep–Nov, Mar–May
Swiss Chard45–5510 in.Around 20°FVery goodSep–Dec, Mar–Jun
Mâche50–606 in.Near 5°FExcellent (needs cold)Oct–Mar

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1. Spinach (Spinacia oleracea)

Healthy spinach leaves growing in a deep balcony container during cool fall weather.
Healthy spinach leaves growing in a deep balcony container during cool fall weather.

First, spinach is a practical gateway crop for cool-season gardening—it's fast, productive, and the flavor difference between home-grown and store-bought is dramatic. By comparison, store spinach is harvested with transport and shelf life in mind; yours can stay on the plant until you're ready to eat it.

Best Varieties for Containers

  • 'Bloomsdale Long Standing' — The classic heirloom savoyed spinach. Dark green, heavily crinkled leaves. Cold-hardy and slow to bolt. Seeds: $3/packet from most suppliers. My go-to for fall planting.
  • 'Giant Winter' — Bred specifically for overwintering. Large, smooth leaves that survive hard frost. Available from Johnny's Selected Seeds ($4/packet). Best for zones 5-7 where winter lows hit single digits.
  • 'Space' — Smooth-leaf variety, very compact (6-8 inches), ideal for 8-inch pots. Fastest to harvest at 35 days. Good for small balconies where every inch counts.

Container Growing

For containers, use an 8-inch pot minimum (10-inch is better). In addition, standard potting mix can work as a base; amend only as needed for the crop. Therefore, give spinach enough root depth rather than focusing only on pot width.; choose a pot at least 8 inches deep.

Next, sow seeds 1/2 inch deep, 2 inches apart. Then, thin seedlings after true leaves develop. For a longer harvest, stagger sowings instead of planting every container at once. from late August through October (zones 5-7) or September through November (zones 8-10).

The Cutting Secret

Then, harvest outer leaves when they're 4-6 inches long, leaving the center rosette intact. As a result, the center can continue producing leaves for 6-8 weeks. Therefore, avoid removing the entire crown when you want continued harvest.—leave at least 5-6 inner leaves and it will regrow.

Spinach's Fatal Flaw: Bolting. Spinach bolts (goes to seed) when days get longer and temperatures consistently exceed 75°F. After bolting, leaf quality usually declines. For that reason, spinach is best treated as a cool-season crop in many climates. Fall-planted spinach gets shorter days and cooler temperatures, so it stays productive for months instead of weeks. However, if autumn remains warm in your area where October can still be hot, start spinach in a shadier spot and move it to full sun once temperatures drop below 70°F.

Spinach Downy Mildew

However, spinach can also develop downy mildew—yellow spots on upper leaf surfaces with gray-purple fuzzy growth underneath. It thrives in cool, humid conditions (exactly what fall provides). Prevention: (1) Water at soil level, never on leaves, (2) Space plants 6 inches apart for airflow, (3) Choose resistant varieties like 'Space' and 'Renegade'. If it appears, remove affected leaves immediately—do not compost them. Improve airflow with a small fan if growing indoors.

2. Kale (Brassica oleracea var. acephala)

Cold-hardy kale growing in a balcony container with light frost on the leaves.
Cold-hardy kale growing in a balcony container with light frost on the leaves.

Next, kale is one of the strongest cool-season container crops. In practice, kale is productive and handles cool conditions well. In addition, cool weather can improve its flavor and texture. from a tough, slightly bitter leaf into something genuinely sweet and tender.

Best Varieties for Balconies

  • 'Red Russian' — Flat, fringed leaves with red-purple stems. Sweetens dramatically after frost. 18-24 in. Plants: $3-4 per 4-inch pot at garden centers. The most cold-tolerant kale I've grown—survived 18°F on my balcony uncovered.
  • 'Lacinato' (Dinosaur Kale) — Dark blue-green, pebbled texture, 24-30 in. Best for sautéing and making kale chips. For example, its firm texture holds up well in cooked dishes. Seeds: $3/packet.
  • 'Winterbor' — Extremely curly, 24-36 in. In addition, 'Winterbor' is a productive choice when you have room for a larger container. Best if you have a large 14+ inch pot or a raised bed. Very frost-tolerant.

The Frost-Sweetening Effect

For example, cold exposure can increase soluble sugars in kale leaves: when temperatures drop below 32°F, kale converts its starch reserves into simple sugars. In other words, the plant's sugar balance changes as it acclimates to cold. (sugar water freezes at a lower temperature than plain water), but the side effect is that the leaves become noticeably sweeter. However, the exact response varies with cultivar and conditions. For example, in my informal taste test: pre-frost kale scored 6/10 for sweetness, post-frost scored 9/10. As a result, the post-frost leaves tasted noticeably sweeter in that small comparison.

My Kale Container Test: In fall 2025, I grew 'Red Russian' kale in three pot sizes: 8-inch, 12-inch, and 16-inch. In my test, the 8-inch plants produced 12 harvestable leaves before stalling in November. Meanwhile, the 12-inch plants produced 28 leaves and kept going through January. By comparison, the 16-inch plants produced 35+ leaves and survived the entire winter. Overall, the larger containers produced more leaves in this home comparison. Therefore, choose a container that gives the roots enough room while still fitting the balcony safely.—12 inches is the minimum, 14-16 inches is ideal. See our Containers vs In-Ground Planting guide for more on container size strategy.

Kale Pests (and Why You'll Have Fewer in Fall)

Meanwhile, kale's main summer pests—cabbage white butterfly caterpillars and aphids—are largely gone by fall. However, pest pressure does not disappear on the same date in every climate., and cabbage moths stop laying eggs when temperatures drop below 50°F. For example, if aphids remain on fall kale, a strong spray of water from a spray bottle knocks them off, and they don't return in cold weather. For summer kale pest issues, see our Summer Pest SOS guide.

3. Arugula (Eruca vesicaria)

Dense young arugula leaves growing as cut-and-come-again baby greens in a shallow balcony container.
Dense young arugula leaves growing as cut-and-come-again baby greens in a shallow balcony container.

By contrast, arugula is one of the fastest greens from seed to plate on this list—25 days from sowing to first harvest. In addition, it is beginner-friendly, which makes it the perfect confidence-builder if you've never grown food before. In other words, arugula is a forgiving first edible crop for many beginners.

Best Varieties

  • 'Rocket' (standard) — The classic peppery arugula. 25-35 days to harvest. Available everywhere ($2-3/packet). Therefore, standard 'Rocket' is a practical starting variety for beginners.
  • 'Astro' — Slower to bolt than standard rocket by 1-2 weeks. Slightly milder flavor. Best for warm-zone gardeners who worry about early bolting. Seeds: $3-4/packet.
  • 'Wild Arugula' (Diplotaxis tenuifolia) — Thinner, more deeply lobed leaves with a sharper, more peppery bite. Perennial in zones 6-10—comes back year after year. Slower growing but longer-lived. My secret weapon for a permanent balcony salad patch.

The Baby Greens Strategy

For baby greens, arugula excels as a cut-and-come-again crop. First, sow seeds fairly closely when growing baby leaves (1 inch apart) in a wide, shallow container—a 6-inch pot or a rectangular window box works perfectly. Then, when the plants reach 3-4 inches tall (about 25 days), cut them 1 inch above soil level with scissors. Afterward, healthy plants may produce another flush of leaves. However, the number of useful cuts varies with heat, light, moisture, and plant vigor. before the plants tire out.

Arugula Economics: For example, a packet can contain enough seed for several sowings. As a result, one packet can cover several small containers over the season., that's enough for 5-6 containers producing 3-4 cuts each. Total yield: about 15-24 bowls of fresh arugula. By comparison, repeated store-bought containers can cost considerably more over time. at the grocery store costs $4-5 per 5 oz container—that's $60-120 in store-bought greens from a $2 seed packet. No other crop gives you this return.

Why Arugula Turns Bitter (and How to Prevent It)

However, heat and maturity can make arugula taste more bitter. Therefore, use three simple habits to reduce excess bitterness: (1) Grow in fall, not summer—arugula is a cool-season plant, (2) Harvest leaves young (3-4 inches), before they get large and tough, (3) Keep soil consistently moist—dry soil accelerates bitterness. For example, if your arugula is already bitter, harvest it all, cut it small, and use it in cooked dishes (sautéed with garlic) where the heat mellows the bite.

4. Swiss Chard (Beta vulgaris subsp. cicla)

Colorful Swiss chard with red, yellow, and orange stems growing in a balcony container.
Colorful Swiss chard with red, yellow, and orange stems growing in a balcony container.

Meanwhile, Swiss chard adds both color and food value you can grow on a balcony—and one of the most productive. For example, 'Rainbow Mix' produces stems in pink, yellow, orange, red, and white., yellow, orange, red, and white from the same seed packet. As a result, it can work as both an edible and an ornamental container plant.

Best Varieties

  • 'Rainbow Mix' (aka 'Bright Lights') — Multi-colored stems, 18-24 in. The most popular chard for a reason: it's beautiful, productive, and each plant is a different color. Seeds: $3/packet from Burpee, Renee's Garden, or Johnny's.
  • 'Fordhook Giant' — Dark green, heavily crinkled leaves with thick white stems. 20-28 in. The most productive variety for sheer volume—produces larger, thicker leaves than any other. Best for cooking (stems hold their texture). Seeds: $2-3/packet.
  • 'Ruby Red' (aka 'Rhubarb Chard') — Dark green leaves, bright red stems. Striking in containers. Slightly more cold-sensitive than other varieties—cover when temps drop below 25°F. Plants: $4/4-inch pot.

The Cut-and-Come-Again Champion

For long harvests, Swiss chard is one of the strongest options on this list. In addition, one healthy plant can keep producing when outer stalks are harvested selectively. for 6-9 months if harvested correctly. First, remove the outermost stalks at the base (don't cut—snap by bending outward until they separate from the crown). Then, leave enough inner stalks to keep the crown growing to keep the plant growing. As a result, the center can continue producing replacement leaves. to replace what you harvested.

My Chard Stalking Habit: I harvested from the same 'Rainbow Mix' chard plant on my balcony for 8 continuous months—from September 2025 through April 2026. One plant, one 12-inch pot, approximately 60 harvested stalks over the season. The plant finally bolted in May when temperatures hit 80°F. At my local grocery, a single bunch of Swiss chard costs $3.50. Sixty stalks would have cost me roughly $90. The seed packet cost $3. That's a 30x return on a single plant.

Swiss Chard Leaf Miners

However, leaf miners can become a problem on Swiss chard—a tiny fly whose larvae tunnel inside the leaves, creating translucent, winding trails. For example, if you see leaf-miner trails, pinch the affected area and squash the larva inside. Then, remove badly damaged leaves when needed. For prevention, cover young plants with floating row cover (a lightweight mesh fabric, $8-12 for a 5×25 ft sheet from any garden supply) until the plants are 6 inches tall—this prevents the adult flies from laying eggs on the leaves.

5. Mâche (Valerianella locusta)

Mâche rosettes growing in a shallow balcony container during cold winter weather.
Mâche rosettes growing in a shallow balcony container during cold winter weather.

Finally, mâche—also called corn salad or lamb's lettuce—is a useful deep-winter option of cool-season gardening. Although it is less familiar to many American home gardeners, it is highly cold-tolerant, but it's the most cold-hardy salad green you can grow. Even so, actual survival depends on cultivar, exposure, container size, and the duration of cold., which means it keeps producing fresh salad greens in January when everything else is frozen solid or dead.

For example, I discovered mâche in 2024 when a European gardening friend sent me seeds. First, I sowed them in October, forgot about them, and found a thriving crop of tender, nutty-flavored rosettes in my balcony containers in January—after two weeks of temperatures that never rose above freezing. At that point, very little else on my balcony was still productive. As a result, mâche became one of my preferred greens for the coldest part of the season.

Growing Mâche

  • Sowing: Direct-sow in October (zones 5-7) or November (zones 8-10). For sowing, scatter the small seeds according to the packet directions and press gently; don't bury. Germination in 10-14 days at 50-60°F.
  • Spacing: 3-4 inches between plants. Because mâche stays compact, several plants can fit in a modest container. (2-3 inch rosettes), so you can pack them tight.
  • Container: A 6-inch pot fits 3-4 plants. In addition, a window box can hold a useful small planting.
  • Harvest: For harvest, cut a mature rosette or take selected outer leaves. when it's 3-4 inches across, or pick individual outer leaves. Flavor is mild, slightly nutty, with a buttery texture that's completely different from other greens.
Why Mâche Is the Deep Winter Superfood: Mâche has the highest vitamin C content of any salad green—even more than spinach. It was historically foraged in Europe during winter when no other fresh greens were available. It's a $15/lb delicacy at specialty grocers like Whole Foods (sold as "lamb's lettuce"), yet it's one of the easiest greens to grow from seed. One $4 packet produces more mâche than you could ever eat.

Fall Planting Calendar

MonthSpinachKaleArugulaSwiss ChardMâche
AugustStart indoors (Z5-6)
SeptemberPrime 1st sowingPrime Transplant / direct sowPrime 1st sowingPrime 1st sowing
October2nd sowing2nd sowingPrime Sow (Z5-7)
November3rd sowing (Z7+)Final sowing (Z8+)Prime Sow (Z8-10)
December–JanHarvest onlyHarvest (frost-sweetened)Harvest (if covered)Harvest (if covered)Prime Active growing + harvest
February–MarPrime Spring sowingSpring sowingPrime Spring sowingSpring sowingFinal harvest before heat

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In short, “Prime” marks the main sowing or harvest window. Zones indicated where timing differs significantly. However, adjust timing for your local frost pattern rather than relying only on zone number. for every 2 zones colder than Zone 7.

Frost Protection for Balcony Containers

Cool-season balcony greens protected from frost with breathable horticultural fleece around grouped containers.
Cool-season balcony greens protected from frost with breathable horticultural fleece around grouped containers.

For winter care, container plants are more exposed to cold than in-ground plants because the roots don't have the earth's insulation. For example, roots in a container can cool much faster than roots protected by surrounding ground. can kill kale roots in a thin plastic pot. Therefore, use protection that matches the crop, container, and local conditions:

Protection LevelMethodCostProtects Down ToBest For
LightFloating row cover / horticultural fleece draped over plants$8-12 per 5×25 ft28°F (-2°C)Arugula, early fall spinach
MediumDouble layer of fleece, or single layer + move pots against building wallFree (reuse fleece)20°F (-7°C)Kale, Swiss chard, spinach
HeavyMini hoop house: flexible PVC hoops + fleece or clear plastic over a raised bed or group of pots$15-25 for materials10°F (-12°C)All five greens through deep winter
MaximumBring pots indoors on the coldest nights (below 15°F), return outdoors during the dayFreeAny temperatureAny green; works for balcony gardeners with floor space near a window

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Root Freeze Warning: The danger to container greens in winter isn't the air temperature—it's the root temperature. Soil in a 10-inch plastic pot can freeze solid when air temperatures drop below 25°F for more than a few hours, even if the above-ground plant looks fine. Frozen roots = dead plant. Therefore, protect the root zone before severe cold arrives. in bubble wrap or old towels when temperatures drop below 25°F. However, do not assume a fixed amount of temperature protection from any single wrapping method. Instead, judge protection by the plant's hardiness, pot size, exposure, and local forecast.

Common Problems and Quick Fixes

ProblemMost Likely OnCauseFix
Leaves turning yellowSpinach, Swiss chardOverwatering (most common) or nitrogen deficiencyLet soil dry to 1 inch deep before watering; add diluted liquid fertilizer
Plants bolting (flowering) earlySpinach, arugulaToo warm; day length too longMove to shadier spot; harvest immediately (leaves will turn bitter soon); re-sow in cooler window
Holes in leaves, no visible pestKale, Swiss chardCabbage white butterfly caterpillars (green, camouflaged on leaves)Hand-pick caterpillars; check undersides of leaves; use row cover to prevent egg-laying
White powdery coating on leavesSpinachDowny mildewRemove affected leaves; improve airflow; avoid overhead watering; switch to resistant variety
Translucent tunnels in leavesSwiss chardLeaf minersPinch and squash the larva inside the tunnel; remove heavily mined leaves; use row cover on young plants
Tiny pits/stippling on leavesArugulaFlea beetlesCover with row cover immediately; they're most active in warm fall weather and disappear after frost
Plant froze solid, looks deadAnyRoot freeze in containerWait 3-5 days before pulling—some greens (kale, mâche) recover from crown even if all leaves are dead. Don't cut frozen leaves off until they thaw naturally.

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From Balcony to Bowl: Simple Preparations

Kale, Arugula & Swiss Chard

After harvest, these are simple ways I use balcony greens—they're how I actually eat my balcony greens daily. In other words, the goal is quick everyday preparation:

  • Kale massaged salad: First, strip kale leaves from thick stems, tear into pieces, drizzle olive oil and a pinch of salt, massage with your hands for 60 seconds until the leaves soften and turn bright green. Then, finish with lemon juice and grated Parmesan if desired. The massaging breaks down the tough cell walls and makes raw kale tender. Post-frost kale needs almost no massaging—it's already tender.
  • Arugula on everything: For example, add arugula to pizza, pasta, or sandwiches near serving time., toss it into pasta at the last minute, or use it as a sandwich base. As a result, gentle heat wilts arugula slightly and softens its peppery bite. The best 10-second "cooking" method there is.
  • Sautéed Swiss chard with garlic: First, separate chard stems from leaves. Next, cook the stems before the leaves because they need more time. (they take longer), add minced garlic for 30 seconds, then add the torn leaves. Cook 2-3 minutes until wilted. Finally, finish with lemon juice if you like. In addition, the stems stay pleasantly firm when cooked, so they are worth using.

Spinach & Mâche

  • Spinach smoothie: For a smoothie, blend spinach with fruit and your preferred liquid., one frozen banana, one cup almond milk, blend. You cannot taste the spinach—the banana completely masks it. For example, a smoothie is an easy way to use a handful of fresh spinach.
  • Mâche as a bed: For mâche, use whole rosettes as a salad base or side green. for any salad, or under grilled fish or chicken. Meanwhile, mâche's buttery texture and mild flavor pair well with richer foods. Finally, a simple finish of olive oil and salt is often enough.

Recommended Products

ProductBrandPriceWhat It DoesBest For
Floating Row CoverAgribon (various)$8-12 / 5×25 ftFrost protection + pest barrierAll five greens; essential for zones 5-7
All-Purpose Water Soluble FertilizerMiracle-Gro$8 / 1.5 lbMonthly feeding for leaf productionAll five (especially heavy feeders: kale, chard)
Smart-Release Plant FoodOsmocote$14 / 2 lb4-month slow release; set and forgetLong-season crops: kale, Swiss chard
Bubble Wrap (for pot insulation)Any$5 / large rollWraps pots to prevent root freezeAll container greens in zones 5-7
Salad SpinnerOXO Good Grips$18Dries greens quickly for storage; wet greens rot in 1-2 days, dry greens last 5-7 days in the fridgeAny home greens harvester

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Frequently Asked Questions

Light, Containers & Feeding

1. Can I grow these greens indoors on a windowsill?
Yes. However, indoor success depends on light and temperature: (1) A south-facing window that gets at least 4-6 hours of direct sun, and (2) temperatures between 50-65°F (most homes are too warm at 70°F+ for cool-season greens—they'll bolt). For example, spinach and arugula are easier to fit indoors because they're compact. Kale and Swiss chard need more space and light. For supplemental lighting, see our Best Grow Lights for Indoor Herbs and Succulents guide.
2. How many containers do I need for a daily salad?
For example, one person could start with: 2 containers of spinach (staggered sowing), 1 container of arugula, and 1 container of mâche. As a result, four containers can provide several staggered harvests., fitting on a 3-foot balcony section. Rotate which container you harvest from each day, and you'll have fresh greens every day of the week.
3. Do I need to fertilize cool-season greens?
In general, cool-season greens need less feeding than heavy summer crops. Cool-season greens grow slower and need less nitrogen. Apply a diluted liquid fertilizer (half the recommended strength) once a month, or use slow-release granules at planting time. However, over-fertilizing can produce overly soft growth that are more susceptible to frost damage.

Sun, Soil Reuse & Winter Harvesting

4. What if my balcony only gets 4 hours of sun?
For lower-light balconies, spinach, arugula, and mâche tolerate some partial shade (4-5 hours of direct sun). They'll grow slightly slower and produce smaller leaves, but the quality is fine. Kale needs at least 5-6 hours. Swiss chard needs 6+ hours for best stem color. Therefore, if you have a choice, give the sunniest spot to chard and kale, and put spinach and arugula in the shadier corners.
5. Can I reuse the same potting soil next season?
Not usually without refreshing it. First, remove the old root mass First, remove old roots and inspect the used mix., add fresh compost (about 25% by volume), and mix in a handful of perlite for drainage. In addition, depleted or compacted mix can reduce plant performance. For more detail, see our container soil guide, see our Containers vs In-Ground Planting guide.
6. When should I stop harvesting and let the plant overwinter?
Finally, as nights become colder, reduce harvesting if the plant needs more foliage to maintain itself., reduce harvesting to no more than 1/3 of the leaves. The plant needs its remaining foliage to photosynthesize and sustain the roots through winter. Then, resume fuller harvesting when healthy new growth returns. in early spring.

References

  1. University of Minnesota Extension — Growing Spinach — Variety selection, downy mildew management, and overwintering techniques
  2. Royal Horticultural Society — Growing Kale — Frost sweetening science, variety comparison, and year-round cultivation
  3. Oregon State University Extension — Frost Protection for Gardens — Row cover effectiveness data and container-specific cold protection strategies
  4. Seed Savers Exchange — Mâche Growing Guide — The definitive resource for this underappreciated winter green
The Bottom Line: Ultimately, your balcony does not have to go empty after summer. For example, combine quick arugula with longer-lasting kale, spinach, chard, or mâche for 25-day salads, kale for months of frost-sweetened harvests, spinach for daily smoothies, Swiss chard for cut-and-come-again production, and mâche for the deepest winter days when nothing else is growing. As a result, cool-season greens can extend the useful life of a small balcony garden well beyond summer.—and you'll save hundreds of dollars on organic produce you'd otherwise buy wilted from a store.